Gangaikonda Cholapuram: From glory to decline

Pomp and gaiety marked the Aadi Thiruvathirai festival, which is organised every year in Gangaikonda Cholapuram, about 105 kilometres from Tiruchi in Tamil Nadu, to mark the birth anniversary of Rajendra Chola I (1012 to 1044 CE).

The festival, which the DMK government in the State began holding from 2022, became a high-profile event this time thanks to Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s participation in the valediction ceremony. The festival also coincided with the completion of 1,000 years of the maritime expedition of the Chola emperor to Southeast Asia and the commencement of the construction of the iconic temple.

In his book, A History of South India: From Prehistoric Times to the Fall of Vijayanagar, historian K.A. Nilakanta Sastri states that Rajendra Chola’s empire was “the most extensive and most respected Hindu state of his time.” Gangaikonda Cholapuram, established by the Chola ruler, served as the capital of the imperial Cholas for about 250 years (1025 CE-1279 CE). Along with the Brihadeeswara temple in Thanjavur, built by Rajendra Chola’s father, Rajaraja Chola I, the temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram was included by UNESCO in 2004 under the category of ‘Great Living Chola Temples’ and declared a World Heritage Site.

On July 27, Mr. Modi spent about two hours at the temple. Unlike most of his public events, which are characterised by formal speeches and the inauguration of projects and schemes, this event was different. Wearing a white dhoti, a half-sleeve shirt, and an angavastram (upper cloth), the Prime Minister enjoyed devotional renderings by a group of Oduvars (hymn singers) and by music director and composer Ilaiyaraaja. In his speech, Mr. Modi praised the contributions of the Cholas and explained how their rule remains an inspiration for modern India.

The Cholas undoubtedly set a benchmark in various aspects of governance. However, their erstwhile capital is today one of the most backward districts of Tamil Nadu, Ariyalur. It is hard to believe that it was once the seat of power of a great empire for 250 years.

“It is all fine for the Prime Minister to announce the installation of statues for the two Chola emperors. But people in the district had expected him to unveil plans for infrastructure development in the region,” said N. Dhanapal, a resident of Thirumanur village in Ariyalur district. “We thought he would make a statement on the approval of two long-pending railway projects — from Kumbakonam to Namakkal through Ariyalur and Perambalur, and one connecting Pattukottai, Thanjavur, and Ariyalur. We were disappointed,” he added.

A predominantly agrarian district, Ariyalur has cement factories. These were established by large companies given the availability of good quality limestone in the region. After a spell of severe pest attacks about five years ago, farmers virtually stopped raising sugarcane. “The sugar mill that we had barely functions,” a resident complained. Though the Small Industries Development Corporation set up an industrial estate at Mallur in the district about 10 years ago, it found few takers.

The district has a fossil tree park and a fossil museum, which are examples of palaeo-zoology. In fact, the geological community regards the Ariyalur region as important as the Grand Canyon in Arizona, U.S. Yet, the place barely gets any visibility.

In fact, despite being a World Heritage Site for more than 20 years, even the Gangaikonda Cholapuram temple does not attract as many international visitors as it should, primarily due to connectivity issues and lack of amenities.

It is not that there have not been efforts made to improve the district. On the eve of the festival, Chief Minister M.K. Stalin had announced that the Chola Gangam lake, locally known as the Ponneri lake, would be developed at a cost of ₹12 crore, and that facilities for tourists would be improved at a cost of ₹7.25 crore. He also said that renovation work of channels around the tank and other maintenance works would be undertaken. The State government has also planned to construct a museum, spread over 10 acres, at the cost of ₹22.10 crore.

However, these plans are not enough. What the people of the district, which was the seat of the ancient capital of the Cholas, want today is sustained attention and focus on economic development of the region. That is what finally matters to them.