It was summer in the city that proudly calls itself the “end of the world,” and the tourists were flocking like the penguins they had traveled thousands of miles to see. On a late-January afternoon, five hulking cruise ships crowded…

It was summer in the city that proudly calls itself the “end of the world,” and the tourists were flocking like the penguins they had traveled thousands of miles to see. On a late-January afternoon, five hulking cruise ships crowded…