Tucked away in the heart of rural Tamil Nadu, centuries-old palaces and mansions stand as fading testaments to a bygone era. From the opulent palaces of Nayaks and Nawabs to the grand zamin structures, these architectural wonders, embedded in the tales of dynasties, art and culture, are crumbling under the weight of time and neglect.
The Public Works Department (PWD) has turned the spotlight on the restoration of a wide range of such heritage structures. The exercise is driven by the belief that if restored, these under-explored places can be turned into unique destinations for those seeking something beyond the tourist circuits.
Nestled at a place a few kilometres from Arani, a town known for its silk heritage in Tiruvannamalai district, the historic Sathya Vijaya Nagaram Palace, better called the Arani Jagir palace, stands tall as one of the forgotten gems of Tamil Nadu. A ride through the narrow village roads leads to the grand structure.
In collapse
This example of ‘Stuart Architecture’, spread over 4,600 square metres, is falling apart. The two-storey building has multiple windows with striking motifs on its facade. Such stucco works, with figures such as lions, flowers, and human faces, have filled the walls and pillars. The S.V. Nagaram Raja Palace was constructed by Jagir (Zamindar) Venkatanatha Rao Sahib in 1825. With vegetation creeping through its cracks and debris scattered across its once-grand interiors, the palace has been left neglected and unoccupied for over three decades. Among the stunning architectural features is a pipeline made of curved terracotta tiles jutting out of the wall to convey rainwater to the ground.
Pointing to the board at the entrance of the campus, officials of the Building Centre and Conservation Division (BCCD), the heritage wing of the PWD, say it was once used as an office and training centre by the Regional Institute of Rural Development and Panchayat Raj. An estimate of nearly ₹60 crore has been prepared for restoring it. The proposal awaits the government’s approval. The complex includes a two-storey Queen’s Palace, spread over 2,950 square metres and with a fountain at its rear. This structure is in a better shape with its Madras terrace roof nearly intact. A plaque in the dancing or durbar hall reads that it was renovated in 2009 with aid from Anna University. This site is waiting for a ₹13-crore project to take off.
Noting that similar structures in other districts have gained prominence as tourist destinations, particularly the Chettinad region, residents want the area to become a tourist hub even as the PWD is planning to renovate such lesser-known royal sites in the North Arcot region. A number of heritage structures, including those from the colonial era, have been identified. On the list is the 17th Century Nawab’s bungalow in Walajah, Ranipet district. Two major structures in the region will be restored in two phases this year. The PWD is conserving the Desingu Raja Rani Memorial in Ranipet district, which was built in 1771. Work is under way to restore the two tomb-like structures in an octagonal shape at a cost of ₹2.5 crore. Landscaping, an ornamental water fountain, a memorial park with a statue of Desingu Raja, and a gallery showcasing the monument’s history are part of the project.
The PWD is conserving the Desingu Raja Rani Memorial in Ranipet district, which was built in 1771. Work is under way to restore the two tomb-like structures in an octagonal shape at a cost of ₹2.5 crore.
| Photo Credit:
C. Venkatachalapathy
Tiruvannamalai district also boasts of another magnificent structure, Poosimalaikuppam Palace, known by several other names — French castle, shooting box, and ‘Kannadi Maaligai’ (a mirror palace). Located in Arani taluk at the base of a range of small hills, the forest palace is attracting tourists and adventure-seekers, say officials. Constructed by the 10th Arni Jagir, Srinivasa Rao Sahib, in 1850, the palace included a building that housed a kitchen. It was used as a school and shelter for Sri Lankan Tamil refugees till the 1990s. The PWD is set to complete the Herculean task of raising it from a skeleton without roof. Officials say ornamental cornices of the roof and rooms with attached dressing rooms and verandahs are being redone on the basis of old photographs. The two-storey palace also had chimneys for the fireplace. Traditional square tiles from Pavoorchatram are being fixed on its Mangalore-tiled roof. Once the work is completed by August, it can be developed as a tourist spot with a library or a museum, officials say.
Nearly 450 structures identified
The BCCD has started the work on restoring the ancient palaces across Tamil Nadu. Among them are the Chepauk Palace in Chennai, buildings including Sharja Maadi in the Thanjavur Palace, and Eraniel Palace in Kanniyakumari. It has identified nearly 450 historic structures. Renovation of 81 of these structures is in progress. The Tamil Nadu government had sanctioned ₹650 crore for heritage preservation in the past decade. The PWD also collaborates with the Tamil Nadu State Department of Archaeology in the projects.
Madurai’s two iconic palaces — the nearly 400-year-old Thirumalai Nayak Mahal and Rani Mangammal’s Summer Palace, which was built in the 17th Century and now houses the Gandhi Memorial Museum — will be opened in a few months. With about 80% of the work on the interiors completed, the museum is likely to open by April or May, officials say. Importance was given to every detail, including the auditorium. Tourists now visit the temporary gallery and the model house, museum officials add.
Thirumalai Nayak Mahal would be ready in six or seven months as 95% of the structure has been restored, according to officials of the Department of Archaeology. The renovation is being executed without affecting the tourists from across the world. Additional funds were granted to complete the ₹40-crore project taken up on the basis of a scientific study. The sculpture yard would be upgraded as a sculpture park in the Mahal. The height of the Mahal’s floor is being restored to its original level with materials like granite that were used then, officials adds.
The BCCD’s team of architects has been trying to identify zamin bungalows and palaces to provide them with a new lease of life. Nearly 60 such sites have been identified, and the final report will be submitted soon. Coimbatore’s Sulur Zamin Bungalow, Ramalinga Vilasam Palace that belonged to the Sethupathi Dynasty in Ramanathapuram, palaces and zamin sites in Virudhunagar and Tirunelveli are part of the list.
There is also a demand for the government to restore the dilapidated palace of the Udayarpalayam zamindars in Ariyalur district and the 600-year-old Ettayapuram Zamin Palace in Thoothukudi. “We recently received information about Yamunambal Chatram at Needamangalam in Thanjavur. Some of the boarding places at Orathanadu and Thiruvaiyaru are being rebuilt,” says an official.
Manpower shortage
Even as the PWD is taking giant steps towards heritage conservation, shortage of manpower and vehicles and the rising cost pose challenges. Sources say there are seven sub-divisions in the Chennai and Madurai regions. More divisions are needed with adequate infrastructure and engineers to achieve the mammoth task. One sub-division covers 4-5 districts. For instance, the Tiruvannamalai, Coimbatore, and Madurai regions need more field engineers to access structures in remote locations. The shortage often slows down identification of ancient buildings. After the heritage wing was formed, there has been a marginal increase in contractors who specialise in heritage restoration. The government must accelerate sanction of projects as these structures degrade with each passing day, driving up the cost.
K.C. Jayakumar, a heritage contractor involved in 30 projects across Tamil Nadu, says heritage work is time-consuming with meticulous processes involved and the need to use trained workers. “We are unable to speed up the work because of shortage of river sand. We cannot use M-sand to renovate historic buildings. We also bring in traditional carpenters from the neighbouring States,” he says.
Skilled masons needed
There is a need for training more skilled masons, given the significant number of ancient structures waiting to get a fresh look. Residents also point to the slow disappearance of Vazhipokkar Mandapam (a travellers’ inn) on arterial stretches in various districts. These centuries-old structures are often sacrificed for infrastructure projects. Some of these structures survive in Vandavasi, Tiruttani, and Thanigaipolur near Arakkonam, experts say. Residents and experts also highlight the need to prioritise protection of the structures, particularly from encroachments.
As the constitution of a Tamil Nadu heritage conservation commission is getting delayed, balancing urbanisation and conservation remains a difficult task. K.P. Sathyamurthy, former engineer-in-chief, PWD, who authored Experiences in Conservation and Restoration of Heritage Buildings, says the Madras High Court’s recent intervention to enforce the Tamil Nadu Heritage Commission Act, 2012 (amended in 2017), is yet to bear fruit. “The commission’s imperative is to lay down stringent norms, protect heritage structures, including private sites, from being demolished or replaced, and give them importance similar to monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India. The grading of historic buildings, indicating scope for changes, is not followed often in the absence of a commission,” he says.
Adaptive use of the restored buildings without their historical essence being lost and maintaining them for contemporary utility is another challenge. Repurposing them as museums, offices or cultural centres and meeting modern safety standards is the major task after restoration. For instance, Humayun Mahal would soon house a museum. “While we create awareness among the younger generation of the architectural marvels, it is important to train engineers for detailed research and skilled workers who would help to avoid further damage to the fragile structures,” he says.
(With inputs from B. Tilak Chandar in Madurai).
Published – March 09, 2025 12:18 am IST
